I just got back from a food research trip to Lebanon. It was an interesting time to visit Lebanon. Lebanon has for the past three years experienced what the World Bank describes as the “most devastating, multi-pronged crisis in its modern history.” A result of the 2019 financial collapse that was exacerbated by the pandemic and then the 2020 port of Beirut explosion.
Why travel there now? Because my curiosity pulls me toward interesting stories and delicious food.
For those of you who didn’t follow along with my adventures on Instagram, I’ll recap by sharing a list of my 12 favorite things I ate in Lebanon and exactly where I got them:
Let’s start with breakfast.
I custom designed my own saj at Saj Stories in Beirut. I made one with peanut butter, pear, and rosemary. What a flavor combo! I think I should add an overnight oat with these flavors to our breakfast menu.
I had a Zaatar manakish from e baladi in Byblos that had the best texture! It reminded me so much of a light and slighty chewy Neapolitan pizza crust.
The best hummus I had was actually at a breakfast I had at Beit Kanz in Beirut. It had the best texture and flavor of any hummus I had on my trip. Beit Kanz is also an NGO that employs over 1,000 Lebanese women.
I know this isn’t a traditional Lebanese breakfast, but I was so impressed with the avocado toast with poached eggs and ikura from Meat the Fish. The owner is a total Japanophile and sells tons of Japanese pantry items as well.
Now for lunch and dinner meals.
I tried traditional twice fried coriander chicken livers from Gemayel Restaurant, just a 15 minute drive from Byblos in the mountains. This dish was the yummiest version of chicken livers I’ve ever eaten. Crispy edges and so juicy and tender. I could eat it every day! Did you know chicken liver is leaner than chicken breast while also being more nutrient dense? I’m thinking of sneaking it onto the menu either as a side or blended into a chicken meatball. What do you think? Also I really love how a lot of Lebanese meat stews are made with either sour cherry or pomegranate molasses. The sweet and sour flavor using these superfoods is interesting to me and I want to add something to our menu with this flavor profile.
Also at Gemayel Restaurant, I also loved fwaregh, intestines stuffed with rice, meat, chickpeas, and spices. Incredibly juicy, moist, and comforting.
Lastly, also at Gemayel Restaurant (can you tell I’m a huge fan?!), I tried tiny fig birds. So juicy and the crunch you experience is from the tiny bird bones.
I’m still dreaming of the falafel from Falafel M Sayhoun in Beirut, the falafel shop that’s infamous because it started out as one shop run by one family and then one brother broke off to open a competing falafel shop right next door using the same logo in a different color. I tried both and preferred the one on the left with the with gold crown. Their recipe famously doesn’t have onion in it because the original founder didn’t want people to have smelly breath during lunch. Their falafel is very crunchy outside and moist inside. I’ve always wanted to add falafel to our menu, but it’s a tricky thing to get right to make sure it’s crispy after it’s been refrigerated. We’ll try, though, because now that I know how tasty they can be, I’m a huge fan!
I loved a traditional Armenian raw meat dish I had called tchi keufte from the Armenian restaurant Mayrig in Beirut.
I also loved the Mayrig osso bucco with truffles and would definitely order it again.
Here are my two favorite desserts.
A chocolate tart I had at Cluster 001 coffee shop in Beirut was dreamy. I told myself I’d only eat half but then devoured the whole thing. They make a different pastry every day from scratch.
Lastly, I loved the za’atar chocolate cake I had at Tawlet in Beirut. I didn’t think I’d like the combo of za’atar with chocolate, but it was to die for! It kind of reminded me of how lavender tastes good in desserts. It tasted like a rich chocolate cake with very subtle herbal and floral notes. I think our avocado chocolate pudding would taste delicious with a tiny amount of za’atar in it. BTW, this restaurant, Tawlet, has rotating home chefs who prepare the kind of dishes often made at home but not usually found in restaurants. It’s part of a larger group called Souk El Tayeb that sells food from local chefs and home producers (you MUST buy the spiced nuts in their shop!) and that also cooks and donates meals to those in need. It’s a must visit if you’re in Beirut!
I feel so grateful I get to experience food from around the world, share my stories with all of you, and design menu items based on what’s inspired me most. I want all of you to feel like you’re traveling through food as you experience our menus as it’s such a fun way to learn, feel connected to other cultures, expand your palates, and be exposed to more plant variety.
To all the foodies out there, Lebanon should definitely be added to your bucket list! You’ll not only eat well but get to experience the warmth and resilience of the Lebanese people. Come with cash, common sense, and an open mind and you’ll leave feeling inspired and connected.
With gratitude,
Julie
P.S. Special thanks to my friend Marie-Helene, a Lebanese hotelier (founder of Villa Clara hotel in Leros, Greece) living in Beirut, who told me where to eat and stay. She recommended I stay at the NGO hotel Beit Tamanna, where proceeds go toward fulfilling the wishes of children. The location of the hotel was the best, right on the main street called Gouraud Street, where there are tons of coffee shops, restaurants, and bars.